Delhi's Lodhi Garden blends 15th-century tombs, birds, yoga and chai sellers

Delhi's historic Lodhi Garden surrounds 15th-century tombs and Mughal-era monuments with more than 100 tree species and about 50 bird varieties. A 7am yoga class, chai sellers, pre-wedding photo shoots and free daily access make it a favourite green escape in the Indian capital. Every morning at 7am, M.S. Rawat leads a yoga class on the grass beside the Bara Gumbad, a huge domed stone gate and mosque complex built in 1494 in Delhi's Lodhi Garden. The 64-year-old retired civil servant has taught at the garden since 2009, and his regulars include 75-year-old Mahest Arora. Visitors are welcome to join, with their own mats. Rawat says, 'This is a beautiful place with all this greenery and the vibes are very positive. Doing this gives health to our society. ' While packing away his mat, he adds, 'There is no garden like this in the whole world. I've been to many countries, but I've never found a park like this. ' India's capital Delhi has become a colossal urban giant with more than 30 million people. Yet Lodhi Garden, a green haven near the city's bustling heart, remains one of the world's great city parks. No trip to Delhi is complete without a visit here. The park was used as a burial ground for the Lodhi dynasty, which ruled much of North India during the 15th century, and the landscape is still scattered with medieval buildings. Lodhi Garden is much more than a collection of historic monuments, however. More than 100 tree varieties grow inside its boundaries, and about 50 bird species have been recorded, including kingfishers and peacocks. The garden also has a lush butterfly garden. The land was first landscaped in 1936 and named Lady Willingdon Park, after the wife of the then British viceroy. It was renamed Lodhi Garden about a decade later, following India's independence. Like any public space in India, Lodhi Garden is alive with people. Local picnickers and chai sellers share the lawns, and the garden is a perfect place to take a break from Delhi's hectic streets and relax under a tree. At the centre of the garden stands Sheesh Gumbad, a late 15th-century tomb that combines features of Islamic and Hindu architecture. Its elegant dome was once completely covered with enamelled tiles of turquoise and cobalt-blue. Remnants of the original tile work are still visible on the facade. Nearby, a group of men performs acrobatic exercises. One walks on his hands while another stands on his head for several minutes. A member of the party, who introduces himself as AJ, fills his lungs and blows a white conch shell. AJ says, 'I blow the conch here every day. It is good for the heart and lungs. ' AJ also has a board of nails and explains that standing on it offers various physical and mental benefits; he persuades some passers-by to give it a try. On the same lawn, a recently engaged couple was posing for photographs. Lodhi Garden is a popular location for pre-wedding Instagram images and video. TikTok dance routines are also common in front of the park's historic stone monuments. A favourite spot for those videos is the arched verandah of the tomb of Muhammad Shah Sayyid. Built in 1450, it is the oldest structure in the garden. The tomb stands on a platform in a square garden with an avenue of palm trees leading to the main entrance. Perhaps the most peaceful place is the walled garden surrounding the tomb of Sikandar Lodhi, Sultan of Delhi from 1489 to 1517. Soon after his tomb and turreted walls were completed, Lodhi rule in Delhi ended. The dynasty's downfall marked the rise of the Mughals. At the northern entrance, strollers cross the stone Athpula bridge, believed to be one of the few surviving structures built during the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar. Akbar ruled in the 16th century. A path ringing the garden has a constant stream of walkers and joggers. Sit on a bench and a chai seller will probably appear with a huge flask of sweet milky tea. A small paper cup costs 20 rupees, about 30 cents. Along the path is a Crateva adansonii, or Garlic Pear tree, revered by many Hindus and Buddhists for its purported purifying properties; some joggers pause there for a brief salutation. On weekends the garden is crowded with families. Badminton is a favourite game, especially in winter. The park is also popular with young couples seeking privacy; in more secluded corners it can be hard to find a bench not occupied by lovebirds. Nearby landmarks include Safdarjung's tomb, with its impressive marble dome, built in the 18th century. Khan Market, one of Delhi's best shopping destinations, is close enough for visitors to buy picnic supplies at its delicatessens and stroll back to the garden for a picnic surrounded by Indian history, nature and culture. Lodhi Garden is about nine kilometres south of New Delhi railway station. It is open from 6am to 8pm every day, and entry is free. More visitor information is available at incredibleindia.gov.in.